depigmenting solution by mesoestetic®
Cosmetic whitening method effective against melanin skin spots. It effectively combines the professional medical treatment and maintenance at home for the rapid bleaching of all kinds of skin blemishes at any time of year. Suitable for all skin types
Science and results
Scientific aspects of skin depigmentation
Melanogenesis: source of the skin’s pigmentation
Melanogenesis is the skin’s combined mechanism of physical, biochemical and morphological factors, to protect it against the action of solar radiation. It involves the production of melanin inside the melanocyte; a cell located in the basal layer of the epidermis that acts as a photoprotective barrier.
The primary material to produce melanin is an amino acid called tyrosine that reaches the melanosome by a process of diffusion through prior synthesis by the breakdown of phenylalanine. In turn, the melanosomes contain tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the process of melanogenesis, which in the presence of oxygen and tyrosine begins the process of oxidation, through which the tyrosine is converted into DOPA and this in turn transformed into dopaquinone. Finally the dopaquinone is converted to eumelanin and phaeomelanin depending on the race, genetic characteristics and bodily topography of the skin.
Once the melanin has been made inside the melanosomes, these are exported through the dendrite branches of the melanocytes, to the keratinocytes. In the keratinocytes the melanosome membranes are broken and the melanin is distributed through these cells, protecting the DNA from the ultraviolet radiation.
The keratinocytes display a continuous process of differentiation and emigration through the different layers of the epidermis until reaching the stratum corneum, ending with their transformation into corneocytes; keratinized cells that contain melanin and form the stratum corneum. The continuous process of shedding and renewal undergone by the corneocytes of the skin is the natural system of cellular renewal and the route of melanin elimination
Melanin: the amount and type determine the skin’s phototype
The melanocytes synthesize 2 types of melanin simultaneously. However, certain genetic factors give prevalence to one path or the other, which largely determines the color of the skin.
- Eumelanins: Black or brown colored polymers. Responsible for the darkest coloring. Greater protective action against ultraviolet radiation.
- Pheomelanins: Reddish or yellowish biopolymers. Responsible for light coloring. Lesser protective action against ultraviolet radiation.
The color of human skin: the skin phototypes
The American dermatologist Dr. T. Fitzpatrick established a classification for skin type based on the amount and type of melanin produced. It is the reference currently used internationally.
Disorders of melanin pigmentation
Melanogenesis is influenced by both exogenous and endogenous factors that can lead to a localized overproduction of melanin. This excess of melanin translates into unsightly spots of pigmentation, which in the majority of cases are harmless. They are acquired skin spots, different from those with a genetic origin.
- Lukodermas or hypomelanosis: Vitiligo and white patches.
- Melanodermas or hypermelanosis: Lentigo, freckles, nevus.
- Freckles or ephelides
- Lentigo simplex
- Senile Lentigo
- Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation
The dermamelan method®
dermamelan® is a professional treatment for topical bleaching that is versatile, easy to use and adapts to any skin phototype.
- It attenuates and eradicates acquired melanin skin spots
- Restores radiance to the skin
- Evens-out the tone
The dermamelan® method has been designed to obtain the greatest level of efficacy with the best tolerance. To guarantee its effectiveness it is crucial to ensure a correct application in the salon and later continuity in the home. The dermamelan® method is performed in 2 stages, salon and home.
Background information for the consumer
Before starting treatment and during the first interview it is important to inform the user about the following points:
- The method started in the salon should be continued at home following the instructions provided
- To guarantee optimal results, it is recommended to use the dermamelan® method in exclusivity
- Follow-up visits after 1 month and after 3 months are advised.
Mechanisms of action
Aim: to attenuate and eliminate melanin skin spots
The topical application of functional cosmetic ingredients endowed with whitening action, aims to produce a lightening of the skin and the elimination of the unaesthetic melanin spots.
The target of topical skin whiteners is the melanosome. However, when the active ingredients are applied topically in the conventional manner –that is on the skin– their physical diffusion is very limited due to the low permeability of the stratum corneum. In other words, the efficacy of the whiteners depends on their capacity to pass through the stratum corneum, reach the melanocytes and then spread to the melanosomes to inhibit the tyrosinase and related enzymes.
dermamelan®: acts from the origin, the melanosome
The application of dermamelan® inhibits the process of melanogenesis, halting melanin production for a long period of time, during which the peeling of the stratum corneum and the action of macrophages remove the melanin deposits.
- Reversible inhibition of tyrosinase activity. The process of tyrosinase inhibition is only activated when the treatment is applied. Once treatment has ended, the enzyme recovers its activity and begins to make new melanin, especially if there is solar stimulation. As a result of this mechanism, topical bleaching agents must be applied repeatedly to obtain results.
- Inhibitory action without damaging the melanocyte. In no case does the inhibition of tyrosinase cause the disappearance of the melanocytes, it merely stops or slows the production of melanin, meaning there is no risk of white spots appearing. The action of dermamelan® causes an accompanying inhibition in other enzymes that participate in the process of producing eumelanin, including dopachrome tautomerase, among others.
Formula and results
- Rapid whitening action: By intervening at the advanced stage of melanogenesis.
- For all types of skin blemishes caused by melanin: Particularly effective in the reduction of spots with an epidermal localization.
- At any time of the year: Also in summer, accompanied by the use of sun protection to guarantee the effectiveness of the treatment (moisturising sun protection or dermatological sun protection by mesoestetic®).
- Well tolerated, all the skin phototypes: All the dermamelan® formulations have been meticulously prepared to guarantee maximum tolerance. Suitable for all phototypes and cases.
- Demonstrated effectiveness: Numerous trials conducted “in vivo” and “in vitro”.
- Whitening and brightness: It contains enhancing agents that even the skin tone, bestowing it with greater brightness
The cosmetic formulations of dermamelan mask® and dermamelan treatment® act at different stages of melanogenesis with the object of achieving synergy effects. They have been developed from plant and chemical-based ingredients in order to guarantee the maximum level of tyrosinase inhibition.
- Tyrosinase inhibitor complex: master blend of 6 functional ingredients with high inhibitory levels, formulated in the laboratory to guarantee high effectiveness with the greatest skin tolerance. Reversible action.
- Inhibitor complex of dopachrome tautomerase and the eumelanin route: composed of effective ingredients that act as enzyme inhibitors.
- Supplementary inhibitor system of melanogenesis: impedes the transfer of the melanosomes to the keratinocytes canceling the stimulation by ultraviolet radiation in the melanocytes.
- Vitamin complex: potent antioxidant and anti-free radicals, stimulates collagen production and cellular renewal, revitalizes the skin.
- Complex of plant extracts: plant-based substances with whitening properties that moisturize and soothe the skin.
- Sunscreens: combination of physical and chemical filters, with anti-free radical effect that neutralizes UVA and UVB radiation.
- Exfoliating agent: accelerates the natural shedding process of the stratum corneum and therefore, the elimination of melanin.
- Cosmetic foundation without preservatives or perfume: emulsion formulated to facilitate the active ingredients’ penetration of the epidermis.